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Only A Surfer Knows The Feelin
Part 1 of Paper
....s on top of his car, drives his car from a town called Ewa, across the island of Oahu, to a little beach known as Ala Moana Beach Park. He does all of this even before the sun comes up. He spends a few minutes just looking at the ocean, watching and surveying the waves and how they break. As soon as the sun makes its f.... Part 2 of Paper
.... kids back together with their families. And even though these tasks aren’t what most people would want to have to put up with in their lives, he does it every day. Furthermore, as stressful as his job seems to be, this man is one of the mellowest guys that I know. When asked why he does this morning ritual every day, he said, “surfing helps keep me focused”. And I believe him.
Think about it for a moment, each time a surfer goes to a beach, waxes up his board, and surveys the waves from.... |
| Number of words: 1298 - Approximate pages: 5 |
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